Indigenous Grapes You May Not Know
What are indigenous grapes?
Simply put, indigenous grapes are grapes that are native to where they are cultivated. Sadly, due to past wars, economic crashes, climate change, and the devastating phylloxera epidemic during the 19th century, some grapes have had a hard time staying in their native regions. Today, we’ll go over some indigenous grapes that have been able to survive throughout the ages and the winemakers who are giving their all to keep these rare grapes from completely dying out.
Bakator
Region: Carpathian Basin (Hungary, Serbia, Romania)
Other Names: Piros Bakator, Bakator Roz (not to be confused with Feher Bakator)
Bakator - a rare gem! Thick skinned and ranging from rosy red to blue in color, Bakator was once rumored to have Italian origins (Naples). However, this was debunked in the 1830’s and Hungary has officially claimed the grape as their own. Historically, it was specifically known to be served at honorary military services, with locals saying the grape translates to “soldier’s funeral”.
Wine made from Bakator tends to be more medium bodied in style, slightly lower in acidity, with notes of citrus oil, mediterranean herbs, and tropical fruit. Because of it’s difficult pollination, Bakator has become extremely rare throughout the years. Currently, only a handful of winemakers in the Carpathian Basin attempt to grow it.
In 2017, the same winemakers decided to create the Bakator Association; a group whose primary goal is to revive Bakator and other ancient native varieties. These winemakers are Oszkár Maurer (Serbia), István Bartos (Romania), Zoltán Málik (Hungary), István Bencze (Hungary), Heit Loránd (Romania), and László Andrási (Hungary). They also started hosting an annual fair in Hungary where you can try Bakator from the listed winemakers. (Although due to Covid, the last festival was in 2019 and has been put on hold).
If you ever come across Bakator, even in a cuvee, I highly recommend grabbing a bottle!
Recommended Wine:
Oszkár Maurer, Bakatorange 2018
Szabadka, Serbia
Yes, I know it’s an orange wine, but it was officially the first Bakator wine I had and I figured that if it got me hooked, why not you? Deep golden honey in color with fresh pear, linden blossom tea, beeswax, and enough tannins to balance it all out. It was a great introduction to this rare grape. He also has a non-skin contact Bakator that displays the grape’s more subtle, creamy, and herbal qualities.
Baga
Region: Barraida, Portugal
Other Names: Tinta Bairrada, Baga de Louro
If you go to the region of Barraida this thick skinned aromatic dark grape (translated to berry) is abundant. Up until 2003, it was the only red grape that was allowed to be grown in the area. In fact, in order to be considered a Bairrada DOC ‘Classico’, the wine needs to be at least 50% Baga.
But then, why are we just hearing about Baga now? Well, in 1756, in an effort to regulate the production of Port in Douro, the Marquis of Pombal had vineyards across Portugal uprooted and replaced with farms. Since then, the vineyards in Barraida have made a slow comeback, and thankfully so has Baga! Most notably, a group of winemakers in the area, Baga and Friends, are dedicated to spreading their love of this native grape by turning this once overlooked table wine into elegant reds and sparklings.
Recommended Wine:
Joao Pato (Duckman), Baga Pet Nat 2019
Beira, Portugal
Mariana Pato knows her way around Baga. In fact, her older sister Filipa founded the organization Baga and Friends and her father Luis is famous for making the Bairrada region known internationally.
It was Mariana’s whimsical label Joao Pato (aka Duckman), however, that drew me to the Pato family. Founded in 2018, Joao is based on a fictional ancestor who passed on their philosophies on sustainable farming to their family and dons a duck mask (IG: @joao_pato_aka_duckman). Aside from her quirky label, her Baga Pet Nat, made in a blanc de noir ancestral method, is a great example of the new generation of winemakers who continue to showcase their love for their region and its native grapes. With Baga being high in both tannins and acidity, I find it perfect for this sparkling that has notes of wild strawberries, raspberries, beetroot, and slight yeast.
Roter Riesling
Region: Rhine Valley, Germany
I want to start by saying that Riesling is one of my all time favorite grapes. Yes, I’m serious! Grown around the world and ranging from sweet to dry, I believe Riesling is one of the most versatile grapes that truly shows its terroir. That’s why my mind was blown when I came across Roter Riesling a few years ago!
Roter Riesling is an incredibly rare mutation of the white Riesling grape and surprisingly has been around as long as its original form. Although it came close to becoming extinct, in 1991 it saw a resurgence thanks to Geisenheim University’s research center in Germany. Winemakers in the surrounding Hesse, Rheingau area also helped cultivate it and now there are a few regions that are allowed to grow this mutant darling.
Roter is the German adjective for ‘red’, and that is the main difference between the two grapes. Because of it’s darker colored skin, Roter Riesling tends to do better in warmer climates (more shelter from sunlight). In taste, it is similar to white Riesling, except Roter Riesling tends to be more fuller bodied and a bit lower in acidity.
Recommended wine:
Pfeffingen, Terra Rosetta 2020
Pfalz, Germany
Even though Terra Rosetta doesn’t come from the Rheingau region, this skin contact Roter Riesling is a must try! Fermented for 12 days on the mash (pulp, skin, seeds, and juice), unfiltered, with no sulphur added, I believe this version from Pfeffingen really shows how versatile Roter Riesling can be. Copper in color, with bouquets of blood orange, plum skin, and slight citrus oil, past vintages of this wine had been one of my summer favorites.
Note*: this wine is exclusive to Viniculture, a wine shop in Berlin!
Rkatsiteli
Region: Caucasus Mountains, Georgia
Georgia has long been considered one of the oldest wine producing regions with one of the oldest grape varieties in the world: Rkatsiteli. 5000 years old to be exact! Yes, Rkatsiteli has been around since 3000 BC. Being naturally resistant to phylloxera, Rkatsiteli has been able to thrive seemingly unharmed.
Throughout the years, this fascinating grape has continuously been one of the country’s most grown ancient varieties. If you’ve had a white wine from Georgia, chances are it’s Rkatsiteli! It’s naturally high in acidity which makes it ideal to be fermented in qvevri (more info below). Nowadays, it is common to find Rkatsiteli in other countries such as: Russia, Ukraine, Bulgaria, Romanis, and even Australia.
Recommended wine:
Pheasant’s Tears, Rkatsiteli 2011 (but any vintage really)
Kakheti, Georgia
Kakheti is the region in Georgia that Rkatsiteli is most known for, and Pheasant’s Tears winery (along with many others) still make wine using traditional Georgian winemaking methods. One of these traditions is to use qvevri, Georgian clay vessels lined with beeswax that were used to ferment/age wine. After filling the vessels, the qvevri were then buried underground to maintain the consistent cool temperature of the earth.
Pheasant’s Tears’ 2011 Rkatsiteli is smokey with aromas of stonefruit, wild honey, and black tea. I also recommend trying a younger vintage to experience the grape’s slightly more acidic qualities.
