Behind the Bar with Siobhan Buchanan
For our final Behind the Bar: Pride Project, I spoke to beer and travel writer Siobhan Buchanan (@britishbeergirl). Siobhan was the first person interviewed for this project, and even though we’d never met before it was like talking to an old friend.
We originally spoke in August, where we discussed her career as a writer, integrating into the online drinks community, and representation/visibility within beer. We then spoke again in the beginning of December to discuss the past year, what her plans are for 2021 and what we’d like to see from the beer industry moving forward over the next twelve months.
AUGUST
Helen: What is your background, how did you get into beer?
Siobhan: I mostly do freelance writing, editing, some communications management and social media management. My main focus and what I really love is writing and editing, specifically around craft beer and travel. I've been doing that for two and a half years now. I quit my full-time job in an office in comms, because it just wasn't for me for myriad reasons. What I really wanted to do was just write about things I like, and that had always been in the back of my mind since I was at uni. I studied English Literature at Aberdeen, and it was great in the sense that it was just four years of Book Club, but I didn't really know what I wanted to do after that and kind of floated from place to place.
When I quit my job I thought “Well, what am I gonna write about?” At the time I had been getting into beer and I’ve always loved travelling. It kind of all came together. Over the first six months of being freelance I started to learn more about beer, in an educational capacity. I also kind of lucked out because one of my good friends is the editor of Ferment Magazine. He gave me some opportunities which allowed me to get a good portfolio. So now I work as a beer and travel writer and I love it, I wouldn’t change it for the world. It has given me the chance to meet people, go places and learn about beer.
Helen: And you’re based in Edinburgh?
Siobhan: Yeah, it’s lovely. There’s such a good beer drinking community with plenty of bars and breweries. I honestly don’t know why anyone would want to leave Edinburgh to be honest. I’m based in Leith too so have Pilot, Campervan Brewery and Newbarns on my doorstep.
Helen: That's awesome. There’s also a really nice online community too I’ve found.
Siobhan: Yeah, I’m not a prolific Tweeter but when I went freelance I found it quite easy to slot into that part of the internet. Everyone online has been so helpful and friendly.
Helen: There have been some really interesting conversations happening recently around accessibility. I strongly believe in supporting independent but at the same time, it’s not always that easy and, mostly in wine but it very much applies to beer. People shouldn’t be shamed on what they drink because they have a lower income. I mean I work for Brewdog and I wouldn’t be able to afford to buy most of the beer I drink without the staff discount. I worry that with some people, they are using their love for craft beer as a front for classism.
Siobhan: I’ve actually had this piece sitting in the drafts of my website for about a month now. I don’t know how to frame it, it’s something I add a couple of sentences to whenever I get mad. I have a very modest low income, and I'm lucky that my wife has a good wage. Beer is my livelihood, but I can't afford to have the lifestyle that I see people on social media have, buying exciting beer all the time. I’ve got a great beer fridge at home, but a lot of that is free since I get samples every now and again. I see people chasing the latest hype beers and going to all these festivals, but I just can't afford to do that, it’s travel and accommodation on top of a ticket. And sometimes I feel like I’m missing out because I'm often just drinking normal stuff. Don’t get me wrong, we have quite a good collection of special beers that we’ve amassed over time but they’re for special occasions. Sometimes I think, because I can’t do all that does that make me bad at my job?
Helen: But that’s the thing that’s so interesting, is that so often the people who attend these festivals and have the latest beers don’t actually work in the industry. They are office workers who have amazing salaries. I completely understand why some beer costs the way it does, you’re paying for quality ingredients and skill and fair workers wages, I would never suggest otherwise. I think what needs to be addressed is the snobbery within micro beer, then safe working practices within macro beer and the intersections within those issues.
Siobhan: You see all the beer rating accounts on Instagram and they're all perfectly entitled to their opinions, but there’s the risk that because of their high follower count that breweries start listening to those consumers. It becomes a cycle of those bloggers’ opinions mattering more and more, and affecting the trade.
I met someone recently who told me that he never drinks the same beer twice because he wants to check them all in on Untappd and post about them. Even if it’s the best beer he has ever had, he won’t drink it again. That’s completely ridiculous to me.
Helen: It’s funny though because you then get the opposite of that, people like my dad who struggles to get into craft beer because it drives him nuts that breweries will brew something that he likes but then don’t brew it again. My dad wants your solid amber ale, he doesn’t care about your birthday cake IPA. Which I do get.
Siobhan: The amazing thing about beer though is the variety. There is a beer for everyone. We just need to be more supportive of each other’s palettes.
Helen: Do you think there is currently space to be queer within beer?
Siobhan: There’s definitely space, I don’t think it’s occupied as well as it should be. I made a conscious decision several months ago to put that I was pansexual in my Twitter and Instagram bios. It’s something I think is needed in terms of visibility for people. It’s amazing having people like Lily Waite be so vocal about queer rights and trans issues. We’re seeing way more black people online talking about issues within the beer industry too which is so important. I just think that we need to be vocal about who we are and live our truths, so that other people will see that it’s okay and that there’s space for them.
Helen: I agree with you. I’ve always been quite vocal about who I am, especially on the internet. I mean I’ve existed on the internet from the age of about eleven so I often joke that I was raised on the internet. In all seriousness though if it wasn’t for the bravery of those I met and interacted with online I wouldn’t have been so confident to be out in my real life. It’s amazing how much less lonely the internet can make you. It’s pretty important for queer youth. This may sound hyperbolic but it’s important to be vocal if you have the privilege to, because there’s always someone out there who needs to see it to survive.
Siobhan: I think that seeing all the work Lily has done with Queer Brewing was a huge inspiration for me to be visible in my career. If I lose opportunities for that, I don’t care. I know I’ve lost followers on Twitter because I’ve posted my “controversial” opinions against JK Rowling. I will never support bigotry in any shape or form and I want to be open about that.
In my own experience of beer, I’ve never necessarily experienced homophobia (I was in a straight-passing relationship for a long time) but I’ve experienced a lot of sexism. One time I was clearing up after a beer and cheese event, and this guy came over and started thanking me and put his hand on my lower back and when I tried to shift away he kept shifting closer. I was really creeped out so told my coworker at the time and she was like “oh don’t worry, he was probably just being friendly” and the thing is, there isn’t much that could have been done about it because the guy was leaving anyway, but at the very least I should be able to have that conversation with my coworkers and for them to realise it was harrassment. I’m quite lucky as a whole because I run in quite safe communities, but the general public is sometimes a lot to contend with.
Helen: I do find as well that some men are almost comforted by the fact that you are providing them with a service, because that is the role you’re supposed to be in. It isn’t that this is your chosen career, you’re smart and know ten times more about beer than they do. You are there to pour them beer and listen to their sexist jokes and in some cases verbal or physical abuse.
Siobhan: And on the opposite side of that, when you go into a bar and there’s a man working you often end up being spoken to like you clearly know nothing about beer. It can be a really frustrating interaction where they are just rude and don’t want to talk to you. Even little things like automatically pouring you a half and your partner a pint when your order was the other way round, or saying things like “oh you might want to taste that, it’s a sour” and you’re like “yes, I know, it has the word sour next to it, but also I’ve had it before and I know about beer styles.”
Helen: The thing is, over lockdown I’ve had so much time to think about how I get treated and how others get treated by customers or other people in the industry. I don’t want to wait around for someone else to tell me that my existence is okay, I’m tired of it. We’re really going to have to start taking matters into our own hands. What Lily has done so far is incredible, but she can’t be the only person shouldering that responsibility. We need to start sharing the load as a community.
Siobhan: There is still so much work to be done. And it's great that we're in a position where we can be vocal about who we are. I have friends who work in film who don’t even feel comfortable to be out. There’s still a long way to go in so many industries.
Helen: I remember once a guy tried to ask for my number, so I said thank you, but I’m married. He then said “well who is he, I’ll fight him” and I said “I have a wife” and the smile fell from his face, he looked me dead in the eye, said “oh I hadn’t realised you were a dyke” and walked off to stand with his friends. It was said with such aggression, I felt quite sick, but I went over and said that they had to pay their tab and leave.
Which can be a common problem in our industry, that if someone has a big tab then you’re often not able to do anything if they behave inappropriately. I would not have been brave enough to do that if it wasn’t for the fact that I know my wonderful manager 100% has my back and we have a zero-tolerance policy on any bigotry. Most people aren’t lucky enough to have that
Siobhan: I mean CAMRA only recently over the last couple of years have made the steps necessary to ban any sexist advertising from their festivals. I’m lucky because in Edinburgh we have a big community of women beer drinkers. We have the Beers Without Beards group that started two or three years ago, which has created a really nurturing community for women. And I’ve started a queer beer drinking group which will begin meeting after Covid stops inhibiting social activity!
DECEMBER
Helen: Thank you so much for speaking to me again! Especially during such a busy time of year. How are you doing, how has 2021 been for you?
Siobhan: Good thank you, just trying to take it easy, and working on some smaller commissions and social media gigs. I’m lucky because I’ve done some exciting things and bigger jobs over the last few months, so I can afford to give myself a little time off.
For the past couple of months, I have been studying for my certified Cicerone exam, which I was going to take in December but I’ve decided to push to March. I’ve been doing a lot of fun, practical study sessions (which Callie has not been complaining about!), it’s been a nice excuse to try more traditional beers that we wouldn’t normally drink and do some food pairing. How has your year been?
Helen: Similar to you with the Cicerone studying! Honestly it’s just been completely insane. I don’t really remember the first part of the year. Since we reopened at the bar it’s obviously been really stressful, so much chopping and changing of regulations. It’s also been wonderful because of Burum and I’ve had the opportunity to talk to and meet so many incredible people.
Siobhan: Burum has like skyrocketed for you. When we first spoke you went from not really having any funds, and now you can pay one writer a month which is incredible. All the interviews you’ve been conducting are so awesome, and it’s a great platform. Honestly it makes me feel privileged that you would even want to interview me. Total imposter syndrome!
Helen: I can’t pretend like it’s been easy in terms of that. I’ve actually really struggled. There was a time last month where I just wanted to throw the whole project away. Not because I think that the project is bad but because I suddenly felt very exposed and terrified that I would let people down. I took a little time away from my personal social media and hid in my room for a week which I think really helped.
Siobhan: I totally get it, and I don't think you should have imposter syndrome. But then I could tell you that 50,000 times a day and you'll still have it because that’s how it works.
Helen: Of course, and I mean I feel the same way with regards to you, there’s a reason I want to chat to you because I think your POV is interesting and you’re a fantastic member of the beer community. It’s interesting because things really started to get bad for me mentally after I made the Pellicle playlist and Jonny wrote so many amazing things about me. I was so upset because it was so nice, which is crazy right?
Siobhan: No I fully get that. I feel like that sometimes “but why do you like me, I’m just some weirdo?”
Helen: The past few months have been pretty big for you and Callie too?
Siobhan: Yes! It’s all going really well for her. Honestly her coming out as trans has made such a huge difference in her confidence. She's so much happier and it's really built up her self esteem as well. She feels like she fits in her own skin and in the world around her more now. I'm so pleased for her and of how well she's handled it, and how she's just so confident being herself.
Helen: It makes such a huge difference when you have the right toolkit, that’s so wonderful.
Siobhan: Yeah, I’m just so proud of her!
Helen: How are you feeling about the beer industry at the moment, we’ve seen some incredible things from Cloudwater and Queer Brewing Project, with the Wayfinders internship. The jobs board from Beer Kulture. What would you like to see more of in 2021?
Siobhan: Always more of that! I’d like to see more initiatives, and projects. I’m excited to see what happens with the Work in Progress initiative from Brewgooder. It’s about having an extra set of rules and guidelines about equality in beer. To help build a better, more inclusive industry. Breweries have the option to opt into that.
It’ll be interesting to see where Work in Progress goes, I can see a lot coming out of it as it has so much potential. Hopefully when they have a full time staff working on it they’ll be able to do so much with it. Even if breweries adopt their own version of that. There have been strides made over the last several years to increase visibility with women in the beer industry, but that’s often where it stops. What about marginalised groups of people?
Helen: I definitely feel like it’s been a really great year for things starting, I hope the momentum carries and things can get bigger next year. I feel very hopeful, yet cynical, always a little cynical.
Siobhan: One hundred percent, like if you’re a brewery who has signed up to the Work in Progress initiative, how are you implementing that, what are you actually doing? If you’ve done a survey about attitudes, what are you going to do with that information? Some breweries are doing great and others don’t even know how to advertise for positions. Did you see the Tiny Rebel advert for their landscape gardener? That said something like “we know everyone likes a good, trimmed bush”. Like come on. You’re saying it’s just a joke but then if that’s the kind of jokes you’re putting on your adverts, then what things are being said in the workplace? I wouldn’t feel comfortable applying for that job.
Helen: It’s all just super basic, you don’t need to do what Cloudwater are doing, they are in a hugely privileged position with a large budget. You just need to show that you’re a welcoming space for all people. If you don’t eventually people will assume that you aren’t a safe employer. Get that mission statement on your website, observe important days of the year for different communities on social media, work on diversity training for your staff and management. Get your job advert on the Beer Kulture job board.
Do you have any plans for 2021?
Siobhan: Hopefully taking my Certified Cicerone exam! I hope that things clear up in terms of Covid for 2021, I’d love to be able to attend beer events again. There are still some amazing things happening virtually, I spoke to Rachel Auty the other day for Ferment, she’s been working throughout Covid to keep spirits up. She plans the Women on Tap festival which is normally an in person thing but she made it happen virtually. The beer industry has stopped in some facets but in others there’s still some fantastic things happening like virtual tastings, podcasts, Cloudwater Live or Cider Club.
I don’t really feel like I work in beer to be honest, I said to someone the other day that I feel beer-adjacent. I write about beer and travel, but beer is my jam and my preferred industry. I have found myself quite despondent this year because without all of these in person events, especially women in beer events, and generally interacting with people who work in beer, it’s been a little difficult for me to feel like I’m part of the industry that I love. Next year I want to try and get over my Zoom anxiety and actually take part in all these awesome events I keep seeing online though!
Helen: The virtual events have been really wonderful, they have actually made me feel closer to the industry if anything, whereas before I felt a little at sea. It’s nice to be able to connect with people online, but as I said last time we spoke, I grew up on the internet. I actually hope that people do continue to do them even when we can attend in person events again. From an accessibility perspective they are brilliant, I can’t afford to travel and stay places but I can afford to order a couple of drinks from a bottle shop and sit in my living room with my cat. Hopefully next year we’ll be able to start hosting our own virtual events in 2021.
