Beer and Soul
Few beverages have the range to pair with a myriad of foods as beer does, yet beer’s history and the standard food pairings that are often presented are heavily eurocentric. As the beer industry takes part in Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion initiatives, discussions, and events, one obvious way to include marginalized groups is using beer pairings as opportunities to highlight their cultural cuisines. Unfortunately, Black folks, and African Americans specifically, are often excluded when it comes to pairing beer and ethnic foods in literature, beer education, and beer dinners.
Soul food is a window into Black American history and a staple of African American culture. In this piece, we’ll go through general techniques for beer and food pairing, and give beer pairing options for five traditional soul food entreés.
Pairing Techniques
Intensity
The first attribute to consider when pairing beer with food is the level of intensity of each. Since most meals are centered around proteins, this is a good place to start assessing the intensity of a dish. Lighter proteins are generally less intense than heavier ones. The following scale from least to most intense base protein is a good guide: seafood, poultry, pork, beef. Two other things to consider are whether the protein is fatty or lean, and the types of herbs and spices used as seasoning. Fat content serves to increase intensity, as does pungent seasoning, capsaicin heat and “spiciness.” The ladder of food intensity also includes cooking techniques. Roasting, frying, searing, and braising have an increasing influence on the intensity of a dish.
Much like food, beer has a range of intensities depending on style, ingredients, brewing methods, and serving techniques. Intensity increases with a beer’s body, alcohol level, and yeast by-products. For example, an American Light Lager would have a much lower level of intensity than a Belgian Dark Strong Ale.
Flavor
Many flavors in beer are reminiscent of flavors we find in some of our favorite foods. Since beer is a grain based product, many of its flavors resemble gain based foods. Malt flavors resembling those of crackers, dough, bread, and toast are often present in beer and can pair well with meals including grains with similar flavors. Roasted malt flavors can range from coffee, to chocolate, to roasted meats, and crystal malts can lend caramel and nutty flavors to a beer. Hop aromas and flavors, which can be herbal, spicy, or citrusy, also mimic common foods. Yeast character, specifically for ales, can remind us of our favorite fruits or spices we use to season culinary staples. Finding like or complimentary flavors between food and beer can really tie a pairing together.
Other Factors
Aside from intensity and flavor, there are other factors to be considered when pairing beer and food. The beer’s carbonation level is an important one. Carbonation serves as a palate cleanser, which is useful in pairings that include greasy or fatty foods. Pairing these with a highly carbonated beer can be like starting anew each bite! Another thing to consider is the level of alcohol. Beers high in alcohol have the potential to clash with meals high in salt, as well as highly acidic dishes, but goes well with sweet dishes (think high ABV stouts or doppelbock with desserts).
Soul Food and Beer Pairings
Oxtail
Fun fact: most people don’t know that oxtail isn’t from an ox at all. Oxtail is actually the tail of a cow, it’s beef y’all. Now to be perfectly honest oxtail is not the prettiest cut of meat, and t’s probably one of the most expensive. Not too long ago, like most cuts of meat historically synonymous with African American culture, oxtail wasn’t the most desirable part of the cow; however it is honestly one of the tastiest. Since, for the most part, the meat is surrounded by bone, oxtail has a very deep and rich flavor, similar to beef shanks. Oxtail can be cooked on the stovetop or roasted/baked. This is a meat that I would highly recommend searing first. Searing oxtail will intensify and lock in the already present rich flavor.
Beer Pairing: American Brown Ale - Richness of the malt profile compliments the richness of the dish and the high carbonation cuts through the fat of the dish and acts as a palate cleanser.
Neck Bones
Similar to, but not to ever be mistaken with oxtail, are neck bones. Don’t let the name fool you. Neck bones is hands down one of my top five meals. Now you can get beef or pork neck bones, but I’m partial to beef neck bone’s myself. Like oxtail, the meat is surrounded by thick bones, and we all know that the meat closest to the bone is the best tasting! Like oxtail, neck bones have a very rich and deep flavor, but neck bones are a much tougher meat therefore they must be cooked long and low regardless of the cooking method. There are no shortcuts when cooking neck bones if you want the meat to be tender. For this cut of meat I would highly recommend braising as the best cooking method —after a light seasoning and searing session of course. Braising the neck bones on a low to medium heat will ensure that the meat becomes tender and will amp up the already present richness of the meat. I’d normally braise my neck bones in a dark beef broth, onions, bell peppers, and garlic.
Beer Pairing: Schwarzbier - This medium-bodied, crisp dark lager provides a nice contrast to the richness of the dish, while the malt profile compliments the beef flavor.
Andouille Sausage
Often imitated never duplicated good old fatty, spicy andouille sausage. Truly one of God’s many gifts to us. Andouille sausage is a well seasoned, smokey pork usually containing bell pepper, garlic, and Cajun seasoning. This beautifully made sausage can be found in a number of Cajun and creole dishes. Jambalaya, Red Beans & Rice, butter beans, Cajun pasta, and the best meal known to man seafood gumbo. The spicy smoky flavor adds a great layer of flavor and level of depth to any dish you put it in. However, don’t get it twisted Andouille can stand alone. Great on the grill & griddle, throw it in a bun and you're good to go.
Beer Pairing: Saison - The yeast-derived flavors pair well with the Cajun seasoning and high carbonation cuts through the fat and cleanses the palate.
Catfish
Known for the wide mouth and body, as well as their long cat-like whiskers and bugged-out eyes, catfish has got to be by far one of the ugliest fishes there is. Catfish can also be found on every continent—with the exception of Antarctica. Not one of the most appetizing facts but, muddy murky water makes for great catfish action. The fish itself is mild in flavor however it’s the fish of choice for a good ol po-boy. With the exception of shrimp if it ain’t catfish it ain’t a damn po-boy, period end of story. Another great way to prepare catfish is blackening, but I want to be loud and very clear: blackening is not burning. When you burn shit it is not blackening. When you blacken something it gives that food so many different nuances and flavor components and it will never taste the same. It’ll be good but it won’t taste the same the second time around.
Beer Pairings:
Fried Catfish: German Pils - The light body of the beer matches the body of the dish, and the grainy malt sweet malt character compliments the batter. Bitterness balances the residual oil and carbonation acts as a palate cleanser.
Blackened Catfish: Belgian Tripel - Peppery phenolic flavors provide an extra layer that compliments the seasoning used for blackening.
Smoked Turkey Wings/Legs
Now admittedly I don’t know nothing about turkey, just keeping it one thousand. But what I do know is y’all need some smoked turkey legs/wings in your life. Let's keep it a buck; it’s a pretty safe bet that anything smoked is, for the most part, gonna be good. Much like andouille sausage, you can find smoked turkey legs in a number of southern dishes. Collard greens, cabbage, green beans, and black-eyed peas. Smoked turkey legs/wings are andouille sausage counterparts, for exampleIt is often a substitute for andouille sausage with red beans in rice, butter beans, etc. Which is great for anyone who doesn’t eat pork.
Much like its counterpart, smoked turkey offers a way to give any dish depth that you can’t get from just seasoning alone. Personally, I love cooking them with vegetables. Literally, throw it in a pot and just let it simmer away until it falls apart and there are meat chunks throughout your dish. Who doesn’t like chunks of meat throughout their food? Okay besides vegans and vegetarians. Turkey legs/wings can stand alone. Nothing beats smothered smoked turkey legs/wings over rice. Good lord!
Beer Pairings:
Smoked Turkey Wings/ Legs: Munich Dunkel - The medium body of the beer matches well with poultry, and the mild toastiness complements the smoked flavor.
Smothered Smoked Turkey Wings/ Legs: American Brown Ale or American Amber Ale - A bit of a fuller body helps raise the intensity of the beer to meet the intensity the gravy adds. Higher carbonation acts as a palate cleanser.
While there are many general guidelines that can help you create beautiful food and beer pairings, there are no hard and fast rules or right or wrong answers. Food and beer naturally pair well together, so the key is to explore and learn what works for your taste. The possibilities are endless!
